I got everything ready for departure; had extended the visa of Tajikistan, got visas of Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, and Iran, maintained my bicycle which was left dirty since I arrived in Dushanbe nearly 3 weeks ago, bought food, etc. Honestly, I was a little reluctant to cycle. The weather had been so cold in Dushanbe. I'd been so lazy in the city spending time in "cafe"(internet or coffee) mostly. But I must go on. I've done only the half way to Europe so far.
Just before I left Dushanbe, I met two young Canadian women. They were cyclists, and came through Pamir Highway a month after I did, while it snowed and the lowest temperature was -14 degrees! Amazing. They were cute slender women, not like sealions. I should have told them how I got upset when it snowed a bit on a pass, and shouldn't be so sissy about weather.
The border to Uzubekistan was only about 60km away in west of Dushanbe. I arrived there before 3 o'clock. But it took me more than 2 hours to get through. There were 4 or 5 buildings of checkpoints all together, apart from some more gates with soldiers. Everywhere was crowded. I got confused which side I was in after having passed a few, mistook a Tajik officer as an Uzbek one and made him angry. (They seem to hate each other.)
Two officers asked me for bribe in Tajikstani side, because of the blank period of my alien registration while I had no visa, though it had been confirmed all right at the Foreign Ministry. I had to wait patiently till they finally gave up. The custom check of Uzbekistani side was severe. I made a mistake of currency declaration for 100$ (one bill...) and was told off by an irritated officer. I had to run around to get stamps on my paper by his order, then with all of my bicycle bags for X-ray check.
When I finally came out of the last gate, there were tens of men hanging around outside of it, and I had their welcome with curiosity. The sun was setting already. 
16 Nov 2008, Sari Osiyo (near the border), Uzbekistan, 9708km
