While in Chologue
Bad
- The fuel bottle of my cooker, which was in the bottle cage on my bicycle, together with the pumping part inserted, was stolen. It had been safe that way in other countries but not here.
- As I was walking back to the guest house at night, after spending long time in an internet cafe, young guys surrounded me on a dark street and demanded money. "Denge, da? Denge, da? (Money, yes?)" Fortunately they were not violent, and gave up after a while as I just ignored their demand. But it was unpleasant.
Good
- Staffs in MSDSP, an organization for tourists in Chologue, gave me good advice to avoid troubles at check points on the way to Dushanbe, or where exactly I should be careful. They said usual policemen wouldn't pay attention to the date of my visa, but only soldiers at a military check point. They even gave me their phone number to help me in the worst case. That's where I decided to go to Dushanbe by bicycle though there was a risk that I might take longer than the valid date of my visa.
Many other people in the town were very friendly and helpful as well in many ways.
23 Oct.
Bad
I got up early before dawn to have a good start. As I finished loading everything on the bicycle, I pumped air into the front tire to have a smooth ride. Then the tube bursted. I had to unload the bags and change tubes.- A bolt which supported the front carrier was snapped as I run in a bumpy road. (The road was supposed to be good.) Again, I had to unload bags and fixed the part.
24 Oct
Bad
It was windy in the morning. It began raining in the afternoon, continued all night. There was a sign board that warned about mines near where I camped.
- I got puncture once, found three holes, had to fix them in the rain.
- A boy with a shaky old bicycle stopped me on the way, and insisted to exchange our bicycles. So annoying. How dare he thought that could be possible?
Good
- An old man saw me riding in rain, called me and invited me for tea. It wasn't only tea but with a nice meal that his family treated me, with warmhearted hospitality. I felt much better after the meal, and was very grateful.
25 Oct
Bad
- The rain delayed my departure for one hour in the morning. I had to spend another hour to dry the tent later in the afternoon.
- At the military check point, they found me quite resemble to the picture of one of the wanted criminals on the list (black & white rough copy!), and questioned me though it was a short while.
- I couldn't go over the pass before sunset, camped where there was snow left. It was cold.
Good
- I was treated a loaf of bread at a shop, armful of fruits from a woman from a car while I was eating breakfast on the roadside, and an apple from the soldiers.
26 Oct
Bad
- I lost one of the bicycle rocks, had to go back and looked for it for half an hour till I found it at where I had a break.
Good
- I got many apples really cheaply from the villagers who were selling them on the road. Almost free!
27 Oct
Bad
- I had a sudden run in the morning, had to rush to a rocky corner, undo, and got it over. There was no big enough rocks around to hide my whole body. Some cars passed by very slowly.
Good
The road had become pretty good in the last 100km to Dushanbe! No holes! Very smooth ride! I could ride in the darkness as well in that condition. Good hope for the last day.28 Oct
Good
I arrived in Dushanbe in the morning! I did it!Bad
- I first went to Japanese consulate, to get "a letter" from them to apply for a new visa according to my guide book. The consul called someone in the foreign ministry of Tajikistan, and told me that it was no longer their work but a travel agency's. So I went to the agency in the rain. They told me they never did such work. I tried another agency but the answer was the same. "Go to the ministry."
I went to the ministry after all. The office which controled visa was not in the main building but in a small building behind. The guards there chased everybody away, saying the working time was over. I appealed to them as it was an emergency, but the result was the same. I had to wait for the next day.
It was raining all day. I was soaking wet as I left the last office, was wasted.
A hotel let me stay though they noticed my visa was on the last day. A little luck at the end of the tiresome day.
- PS. The altitude meter of my wrist watch got broken. -23745m, it indicates now.
