Dongola-Wadi Halfa, 453km, Monday-Saturday(12th-17th)
The heat became milder after Dongola along the river. I could ride in the afternoon again.
Some part of the road was not paved yet. Streets in villages were sandy or graveled, both difficult to ride. Later I found a good paved road under construction on the east side of the river. I say it was 70% done and that shortened the trip. Workers said it would be completed in a year or two.I crossed the Nile with a small boat called "Pandon".
There were more resting places than I expected. 2 in a day, at least. I didn't have to carry so much food and water.
Buying mineral water was getting difficult. They didn't sell it in a small shop of a village. (There were a few towns where I found a market or shops with more variety.) I started drinking Nile water in the earthenware jars in the villages. Natural Nile water. No chlorine, no filter. But I didn't have any trouble in my bowel.
They often had fried fishes in restaurants. That was nice. Beans was good too.
I came to Wadi Halfa on Saturday, on 17th day, wondering how to kill time till Wednesday. But there was a ferry to Egypt on that day! It was irregular one that came from Egypt because there were so many passengers. The return way was nearly empty. I couldn't believe my luck. I quickly prepared for leaving. The immigration asked how many days I took in Sudan by bicycle. "17days." "Good on you." That was all.
Well, in fact, when I registered in Dongola, I also got "permission to travel to Wadi Halfa" at the immigration office. (I took "permission to cross Nile" too from the security police in another office. That was free.) The officers were nice and did it for me. They knew about my days, and said visa would be no problem. I didn't get anything special on my passport though. Just a regular registration sticker and a signature. I paid about $50, which seemed to be the fee for registration. Maybe it was just the phone call they made to Khartoum. I don't know. Anyway, it went fine.
$100 for transit visa, the $50, and the departure tax and the fare for the ferry. (I forgot how much.) Expensive 17 days. But it was a good experience.
