Khartoum-Dongola, 537km,Wednesday-Sunday(7th-11th)
Khartoum-Dongola was the most tough part of the route. A desert way for about 500km, though it was paved. The distance between resting places was longer. (Roughly 3 places in a day) Wind blew basically against, from west or from north, especially in the afternoon. The heat was incredible. I couldn't move from 11am to 6pm.
I tried once to ride in the afternoon, went for about 16km, and was dead. I was lucky I found a small tunnel under the road. I fell into there and couldn't get out for a couple of hours. Every shade was so precious. And there were so few.
Restaurants (shacks) were a good place to hide in the afternoon. There were cold drinks and shade. As I had a meal and paid a bit of extra, they let me rest on a net bed. Rest didn't mean much of sleeping, but lying still and trying to save energy as much as possible.
I cycled mostly early morning and at night in that area. It means less sleep. That made me more tired during the day time. I tried to eat more even though I had less appetite. That made a difference on the next day.
I was caught by the sun before reaching to Dongola, around 10:30am, 40 more kilometers to go. I was riding all night and didn't have much energy left. Not much water left. No way I could go on. The small bus stop where I was lying was becoming like an oven with the thin metal roof started burning already. It would be a suicide if I didn't move to a better shade. But where...
There was a small village in distance in the desert. It didn't look like there was a restaurant nor somewhere to rest. Or should I beg them to let me stay in the mosk or in their house?
Then I realized that there must be Nile Liver behind it. Water, and trees. That was why there was a village! I moved with all my might.
Kids told me there was nothing in the village. I was nearly collapsing as I reached to the river bank. There were many thorns on the ground under the bush, but I couldn't care less. I lay still a while, till I got tiny energy back to move another 5 meters, into Nile.
I would never forget the feeling as I lay in the river. The water was brown and didn't look so clean, with animal shit on the bank. But it was so cool! I felt myself quickly recovering, as the heat in me dissolving in the water. It was so great! I was sure I came to Sudan for the moment. I was happy.
Kids came to invite me for lunch in their houses later. Cute. But I excused and stayed with Nile.
It was in Egypt when I read about "schistosomiasis haematobia" on web.
